Geneva stripes or Cotes de Genève is arguably the most well-known form of finishing. German watchmakers call their similar version Glashütte ribbing.
To produce this beautiful circular graining, or perlage, wood from the Gentian tree is rubbed in a circular or striping motion over the metal. This process actually ‘cleans’ the surfaces by removing ever so little of it. Today, the metal works produce metals that already have a very clean surface finish, but again tradition states that this finish should be adhered to. 
Perfect Geneva Stripes on the Chopard L.U.C Quattro.
In the best forms of Cotes de Genève, the stripes over the whole movement should align perfectly, as shown in this stunning Chopard (pictured on right).
Sandblasted finishing is another school of finishing that was popular with the watchmakers of yesteryear. Whilst the concept of blasting beads of glass or sand against pieces of metal sounds relatively simple, it is managing the consistency of the blasted surface that becomes a issue; and of course all this takes place only after the type of bead, size of bead, and rate in which it is fired is decided before the blasting process begins.
However, aesthetics does have a very strong seat in the finishing parliament. With regards to rubies for example, the color and polish of all rubies (jewels) within the movement should be of a deep red color, and that rule applies not just to the larger rubies used for the second, third, and fourth wheels, but all the smaller ones as well.
Screws, rubies and chatons should all be countersunk, or at least be on the same level as the bridges in which they are set, and rims in which the countersinking is done should be mirror polished as well. |
