Myth has always surrounded truffles since their first appearance on the dining table some 5000 years ago in Babylonian times. While Greek botanist Theophrastus believed them to be "rootless plants produced by autumn storms", Pliny the Elder called them "callosities of earth and a miracle of nature".
The Greeks and Romans believed truffles contained aphrodisiac properties, and that the scent heightened erotic sensations. In the Middle Ages, their aphrodisiac qualities were considered so strong that they were deemed poisonous and demonic, leading to their temporary banishment from the dining table.
Yet the influence of this humble-looking plant is not confined to the dining table. Count Camillo Benso di Cavour offered them to charm his way into strategic political alliances. Composer Gioacchino Rossini pronounced it "the Mozart of mushrooms", while Byron had one on his desk to fuel his creativity.
Truffles are the fruits of underground hypogenous fungi. They absorb water and mineral salts both through the host tree’s roots as well as from the soil, which results in distinct, region-specific flavors. For all their intense flavor however, truffles are not much to look at, being knobbly in appearance. As for their color, black truffles range from dark brown to black, while white truffles have a beige to brownish skin.
With modern science, we have finally discovered what it is about truffles that drives us wild. A study done by the University of Munich found that these knobbly tubers contain a volatile alcohol which emits the truffle’s characteristic musky scent. But while white truffles possess a stronger aroma than their black counterparts, that aroma is also more easily lost through cooking.
Hunting for these gems is labor-intensive, even after discounting the fact that a trifolau (a professional truffle hunter) and his specially trained hunting dog need years of experience to effectively unearth this treasure. This is also why truffles command astronomically high prices. In 2006 for instance, a Hong Kong bidder paid €95,000 for a 1.2-kg white truffle, the current record for the highest price ever paid for a truffle.
Black truffles can be found in places such as France, Spain, Italy and Croatia. But to connoisseurs, the most beloved are those from the Périgord region in France. Harvested after the first frosts in winter, they are also known as black winter truffles.
Due to their sheer rarity, white truffles are even more desirable. These grow exclusively in Italy and northern Croatia, and ripen between late August and January. Unlike their black siblings, they cannot be cultivated. The most highly prized white truffles come from Piemonte in northwest Italy, especially from a town called Alba.
The traditional method of hunting truffles involved pigs, as the musky scent of the truffle mimics pheromones used in mating. Trifolau prefer trained dogs however, as dogs tend not to eat the truffles upon discovery.
Black truffles are favored by discerning chefs worldwide. Their aroma becomes more apparent when cooked, and their flavors seep easily into other foods in the cooking process. As black truffles react well to heat, they can be used in a wide range of dishes, from meaty mains – such as the classic Tournedos Rossini, a luxurious dish of seared beef medallion and foie gras served with a truffle-Mediara reduction – to ice cream.
Heat-sensitive white truffles are never cooked. Instead, they are shaved paper-thin over fresh pasta, light risottos, salads and most classic of all – scrambled eggs. The general rule of thumb is to pair them with lightly flavored ingredients and dishes, so that their natural aromas can take centre stage.
As one of the most costly ingredients in the world, they are used sparingly. While the finest restaurants will offer you an additional shaving of white truffles like they would a crack of black pepper, be aware that this can result in almost astronomical increases in your bill.
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