Bespoke Detailing
Given that you are bespeaking your suit, the details that you can specify are truly infinite in variety. Some gentlemen like to specify details such as hand-stitching, button material and the lining of the suit. The only boundaries are those set by your imagination and the limits of good taste.
In this section, we shall cover some common details you can ask for when bespeaking your suit.
Number of Buttons Traditional single-breasted coats are made in 2-button or 3-button configurations.
In a 'true' 3-button suit, the top two buttons are fastened, leaving the bottom button unfastened. However, the visual impact of this is a shortened lapel line, resulting in the wearer looking shorter than he would be in a 2-button suit.
Because most men benefit from a tall, slim silhouette, only those with the necessary height to wear it elegantly should go for the 'true' 3-button coat. However, for these fortunate men, a well-cut 3-button coat has an unmatched air of formal elegance.
Another popular configuration for 3-button coats is the 'three-roll-to-two'. In this configuration, only the middle button is buttoned.
The 'three-roll-to-two' is a favorite among many gentlemen, because this allows the tailor to shape the lapel belly – the lowest part of the lapel – to form an elegant "roll", with the top button (See picture on the left) behind the belly of the roll. This is a sign of a hand-stitched lapel, for no machine-made or fused lapel is able to exhibit roll.
In a 'true' 3-button suit, the top two buttons are fastened, leaving the bottom button unfastened. However, the visual impact of this is a shortened lapel line, resulting in the wearer looking shorter than he would be in a 2-button suit.
Because most men benefit from a tall, slim silhouette, only those with the necessary height to wear it elegantly should go for the 'true' 3-button coat. However, for these fortunate men, a well-cut 3-button coat has an unmatched air of formal elegance.
Another popular configuration for 3-button coats is the 'three-roll-to-two'. In this configuration, only the middle button is buttoned.
The 'three-roll-to-two' is a favorite among many gentlemen, because this allows the tailor to shape the lapel belly – the lowest part of the lapel – to form an elegant "roll", with the top button (See picture on the left) behind the belly of the roll. This is a sign of a hand-stitched lapel, for no machine-made or fused lapel is able to exhibit roll.
2-button Coats On a 2-button coat, you would only fasten the top button. Indeed, many
tailors cut their suits such that the front flaps of the coat open up and prevent the bottom button from being used.
(The origins of this practice stems from Kind Edward VII, who had a habit of unfastening the last button of his coat after
a heavy meal)
The coat should always be kept buttoned, as the slight nip in the waist and the button point creates a fulcrum for the coat, gives definition, and provides the coat with both shape and silhouette. For a well-cut suit, this is true even if you are seated.
The coat should always be kept buttoned, as the slight nip in the waist and the button point creates a fulcrum for the coat, gives definition, and provides the coat with both shape and silhouette. For a well-cut suit, this is true even if you are seated.
Lapel For an elegant look, lapels should be selected to suit one's build and not
according to the prevailing fashions of the day. A recommended lapel width is such that the lapel will cover slightly
more than half to slightly less than 3/4 of the chest.
The lapels are usually notched. (Peaked lapels are now not as commonly used for single-breasted suits)
The notch provides a break in the lapel and occurs at the point where the lapel joins the collar.
A high notch position on the coat creates a lapel which is long and sweeping, and therefore, creates the impression of height.
The typical Saville Row suit has the notch fairly high, almost at the clavicle. Many Italian masters have the notch even higher, almost riding at the shoulders.
The lapels are usually notched. (Peaked lapels are now not as commonly used for single-breasted suits)
The notch provides a break in the lapel and occurs at the point where the lapel joins the collar.
A high notch position on the coat creates a lapel which is long and sweeping, and therefore, creates the impression of height.
The typical Saville Row suit has the notch fairly high, almost at the clavicle. Many Italian masters have the notch even higher, almost riding at the shoulders.
Buttonhole The top of the left lapel, about an inch or so below the notch, should
carry a buttonhole for wearing a flower.
This buttonhole should be a plain slit, (preferably hand-stitched), instead of the keyhole-style ones used for the coat's buttons.
Trivia: This buttonhole is a carry-over from the historical beginnings of the single-breasted coat - which came from the Tweedside coat favored by King Edward VII. The collar was later folded backwards - hence the term revers (reverse) being used for the part of the lapel which is folded back. Folded in this manner, the lapel still carries the buttonhole and corresponding button (now hidden behind the right lapel).
This buttonhole should be a plain slit, (preferably hand-stitched), instead of the keyhole-style ones used for the coat's buttons.
Trivia: This buttonhole is a carry-over from the historical beginnings of the single-breasted coat - which came from the Tweedside coat favored by King Edward VII. The collar was later folded backwards - hence the term revers (reverse) being used for the part of the lapel which is folded back. Folded in this manner, the lapel still carries the buttonhole and corresponding button (now hidden behind the right lapel).
Vents The vent is the opening made at the back of the coat. Coats can be single-vented,
double-vented, or unvented.
The single vent is probably the most traditional arrangement for the single-breasted coat. Being a descendant of the riding coat, the single vent allows the tail panel of the coat to splay elegantly on either side of the horse when one is riding.
However, this vent arrangement has fallen out of favor because for one, horse-back riding is no longer a common activity. In addition, when one's hands are put in the trouser pockets, the vent is pulled forward, inevitably opening to reveal one's rump.
The dual vent (See picture on the right) is the typical Saville Row arrangement, where two vents are slit, one on each side. When you put your hands in your pocket, the rear panel remains in place keeping one's modesty. It also allows easy access to the rear pockets, where many men keep their wallets.
The unvented coat is simply designed without a vent. Some prefer this to maintain the 'tight' form of their silhouette.
The single vent is probably the most traditional arrangement for the single-breasted coat. Being a descendant of the riding coat, the single vent allows the tail panel of the coat to splay elegantly on either side of the horse when one is riding.
However, this vent arrangement has fallen out of favor because for one, horse-back riding is no longer a common activity. In addition, when one's hands are put in the trouser pockets, the vent is pulled forward, inevitably opening to reveal one's rump.
The dual vent (See picture on the right) is the typical Saville Row arrangement, where two vents are slit, one on each side. When you put your hands in your pocket, the rear panel remains in place keeping one's modesty. It also allows easy access to the rear pockets, where many men keep their wallets.
The unvented coat is simply designed without a vent. Some prefer this to maintain the 'tight' form of their silhouette.
Sleeve Buttons Unlike ready-to-wear suits, the sleeve buttons on a bespoke suit are functional.
This has led many gentlemen to leave one button undone so as to show the provenance of their suits.
Pockets The business suit always carries three pockets on the outside - one breast
pocket to display a pocket-handkerchief, and two at the waist.
Possible bespoke details for the pockets are patched pockets and flapped pockets. Patched pockets are recommended for gentlemen who like to put their hands into the pockets of their suit.
Another interesting bespoke feature is the ticket pocket - a smaller pocket above the right pocket of a coat. This used to be meant for a railway ticket.
Traditionally, a pocket square is always displayed in the breast pocket. The purpose of the breast pocket is to display a handkerchief, and the look of the suit looks incomplete if left empty.
Possible bespoke details for the pockets are patched pockets and flapped pockets. Patched pockets are recommended for gentlemen who like to put their hands into the pockets of their suit.
Another interesting bespoke feature is the ticket pocket - a smaller pocket above the right pocket of a coat. This used to be meant for a railway ticket.
Traditionally, a pocket square is always displayed in the breast pocket. The purpose of the breast pocket is to display a handkerchief, and the look of the suit looks incomplete if left empty.
Conclusion
The single-breasted suit is probably the most versatile piece of formal wear today. Tailored properly, it will fit men of all ages and flatter all body types. In the right materials and colors, it can be suitable for any occasion.
With today's oft-deconstructionist attitude to men's wear, many of the sartorial details outlined above might seem a tad
anachronistic. Yet, to wear a suit is to wear something borne of centuries of evolution. Thus, besides a discreet mark
of individuality, the detailing on your bespoke suit also constitutes a subtle nod to traditions from more elegant times. 
